Barbarian days: a surfing life
(Book)
Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. This book immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a native Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist. Throughout, he surfs.
Notes
Finnegan, W. (2015). Barbarian days: a surfing life. New York, Penguin Group USA.
Chicago / Turabian - Author Date Citation (style guide)Finnegan, William. 2015. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. New York, Penguin Group USA.
Chicago / Turabian - Humanities Citation (style guide)Finnegan, William, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. New York, Penguin Group USA, 2015.
MLA Citation (style guide)Finnegan, William. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. New York, Penguin Group USA, 2015.
Record Information
Last Sierra Extract Time | May 03, 2024 08:48:26 AM |
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Last File Modification Time | May 03, 2024 08:48:34 AM |
Last Grouped Work Modification Time | May 03, 2024 08:48:29 AM |
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245 | 1 | 0 | |a Barbarian days :|b a surfing life /|c William Finnegan. |
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505 | 0 | |a Off Diamond Head, Honolulu, 1966—67 -- Smell the ocean, California, ca. 1956—65 -- The Shock of the new, California, 1968 -- 'S̀cuse me while I kiss the sky, Maui, 1971 -- The search, The South Pacific, 1978 -- The Lucky Country, Australia, 1978—79 -- Choosing Ethiopia, Asia, Africa, 1979— 81 -- Against dereliction, San Francisco, 1983—86 -- Basso profundo, Madeira, 1994—2003. | |
520 | |a Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. This book immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a native Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist. Throughout, he surfs. | ||
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